The journey north from Auckland traced a winding trail of coastal roads, rolling farmland, and ancient forest. As I drove past Waipapa and crossed the single-lane bridge into Kerikeri, the pace of the world seemed to gently slow, replaced by a rhythm tied to soil and sky. Here, in the heart of the Bay of Islands, history lingers among the citrus groves, and the air hums with the scent of manuka blossoms and the sharp tang of salt blown inland from the Pacific.
Kerikeri may be known for its historic mission buildings and thriving artisan markets, but there is another layer—subtle and soulful—best discovered through where one chooses to rest. The boutique accommodations scattered throughout this fertile valley aren’t just places to sleep; they are invitations to live, however briefly, within the region’s quiet magic.
This trip was dedicated to doing exactly that. One hotel became my personal sanctuary; the others I explored, observed, and admired, gathering local insight and firsthand impressions. What follows is a detailed guide to five of Kerikeri’s most unique boutique lodgings—distinctive not only for their beauty and location but for their character, ethos, and connection to the land.
1. Moon Gate Villa – A Fairytale Stay with Old World Elegance
Location: 462 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri 0293
Platform: Booking.com
Rate: NZD 395/night (Premier King Suite, breakfast included)
It began with a gate.
Sweeping, curved, and painted a soft eggshell blue, the moon-shaped entry to Moon Gate Villa doesn’t simply announce arrival—it prepares you for enchantment. Designed with feng shui principles and constructed as a homage to classic Chinese garden entrances, the gate opens to a lush subtropical estate with over two acres of manicured grounds. Ponga ferns line the stone paths, and the melodic murmur of a koi pond greets you before a single word is exchanged.
Built originally by a Hong Kong diplomat in the 1970s, the villa carries with it an air of diplomatic gentility: tall ceilings, whitewashed walls, refined antiques, and European touches seamlessly blended with Polynesian flora. The property has since been lovingly maintained by hosts Lionel and Rob, who bring hospitality to a level that feels rare in the age of digitized check-ins.
The Suite
The Premier King Suite, where I stayed, occupies a private wing of the villa. A separate entrance opens to a generous sitting room, complete with plush armchairs, bookshelves filled with New Zealand literature, and a curated tea service. Through French doors lies the bedroom—bathed in morning light, dressed in Egyptian cotton linens, and cooled by ceiling fans that spin lazily above.
A writing desk faced the private garden, and a small Bluetooth speaker discreetly tucked beneath a lamp allowed me to play soft jazz while journaling in the afternoons. The ensuite bathroom was spa-like, with a deep soaking tub, a walk-in rain shower, and organic lavender-scented products made by a nearby Kerikeri soapmaker.
Breakfast Rituals
Mornings at Moon Gate Villa begin in the conservatory, a sun-drenched glasshouse at the rear of the property where breakfast is served. No buffet here. Everything is fresh, plated with grace, and accompanied by easy conversation. One morning’s offering included poached eggs with herbed hollandaise, grilled vine tomatoes, and sourdough toast served with fig preserves from the villa’s own trees. Another morning brought bircher muesli with local boysenberries and a carafe of chilled tamarillo juice.
Even on days when I planned to rise early and explore, I lingered. The peace of the place insisted.
Grounds and Local Excursions
The villa is located less than 5 minutes’ drive from Kerikeri’s historic precinct. I walked to the Stone Store Basin on one particularly sunny afternoon, following the Waipapa River through the Kerikeri Domain and under a canopy of totara trees. Along the way, I stopped at Rewa’s Village—a full-scale replica of a pre-European Māori kainga—where the scent of woodsmoke and flax lingered in the air.
Back at the villa, I often found myself doing less than planned. The pool deck became an afternoon retreat, complete with sun loungers and chilled fruit-infused water. At night, I took my glass of Kerikeri-grown Syrah to the garden swing, watching the stars blink alive one by one. This is not simply accommodation—it is a home, dressed in elegance and wrapped in stillness.
2. Wharepuke Subtropical Accommodation – Where Nature Meets Art
Location: 190 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri 0230
Platform: Airbnb and www.wharepuke.co.nz
Rate: NZD 250–280/night
Wharepuke isn’t hidden—but it feels like a secret. Set on five acres of mature subtropical gardens planted over sixty years, it is both a retreat and an artists’ sanctuary.
The accommodations here are private, architect-designed cottages made from sustainable timber and nestled among ferns, banana palms, and flame trees. You can hear the gentle swish of the Kerikeri River and the occasional cry of a kererū overhead. These cottages were originally designed by Tania Booth and Mark Graver—an artist couple who live onsite and manage the Wharepuke Print Studio and Art Gallery.
Cottages as Canvas
Each unit is self-contained with kitchenettes, lounge space, queen or king beds, and modern bathrooms. The décor is understated, with Scandinavian-influenced furnishings, polished concrete floors, and native wood finishes. Large windows bring the garden indoors; you’ll wake to the filtered sunlight dancing through monstera leaves.
The cottages are deliberately TV-free, encouraging guests to disconnect and immerse. A thoughtfully curated library of local art books and poetry replaces the typical hotel reading stack.
The Gallery and Restaurant
At the heart of Wharepuke lies the art gallery—one of Northland’s most respected contemporary spaces, known especially for its printmaking exhibitions. I attended an opening during my visit, where I met artists from Wellington and Whangārei, drank chilled rosé, and wandered between installations.
Onsite is also Food at Wharepuke, a family-run Thai-European fusion restaurant in a timber-and-glass pavilion set among the trees. Chef Colin Ashton crafts surprising dishes like duck red curry with tamarind glaze or lemongrass pork belly, using produce sourced from the garden or nearby farms.
For guests who value culture, creativity, and privacy, Wharepuke offers an experience layered with thought and intention.
3. Treghan Luxury Lodge – A Designer Escape for the Detail-Oriented
Location: 394B Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri 0230
Platform: Expedia and www.treghanlodge.co.nz
Rate: NZD 430/night (Owner’s Cottage)
Down a private lane and nestled among landscaped grounds, Treghan Lodge is both luxurious and discreet. A member of the Heritage & Character Inns of New Zealand, the lodge has earned its reputation by crafting an experience centered on privacy, elegance, and exceptional service.
The Cottages
The Owner’s Cottage—Treghan’s flagship suite—is effectively a fully detached villa. It features two bedrooms, a state-of-the-art kitchen, a formal dining area, and a private deck with views over the gardens. Interiors feel curated rather than decorated: fine linens, custom lighting, original artwork, and a color palette that soothes without fading into blandness.
There are full laundry facilities, Bose sound systems, Nespresso machines, and an honesty pantry stocked with Northland artisan products: chutneys, handmade crackers, and Man O’ War wines from Waiheke Island.
Treghan also offers self-contained breakfast, and they do not cut corners: you’ll find fresh bread from a local bakery, homemade muesli, Kerikeri oranges, and a handwritten welcome note with tasting recommendations.
Tranquility with Proximity
Though the lodge feels removed, it’s less than five minutes’ drive to the heart of Kerikeri. From here, it’s easy to explore the Bay of Islands coastal drives, walk the Kerikeri River Track, or arrange a charter to Moturoa Island. Treghan will even coordinate spa services in-cottage, should you want to stay in a robe all day—something I seriously considered more than once.
4. Stone Store Lodge – Views of History and Waterside Calm
Location: 201 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri 0230
Platform: Hotels.com and Booking.com
Rate: NZD 240–275/night
Just above the historic Stone Store and Kemp House, Stone Store Lodge offers an elevated perspective—literally and metaphorically—on Kerikeri’s colonial heart. With only three guest rooms, it’s an intimate experience framed by broad wooden balconies, polished timber interiors, and sweeping views of the river inlet below.
Each suite opens onto a private deck. Mine faced east, catching the sunrise as mist rolled in from the basin. Rooms are minimal yet warm, with handmade rugs, natural wood accents, and glass-walled bathrooms that open visually onto the landscape.
Local Touches
Owners Robyn and Peter are long-time Kerikeri residents with deep community ties. Breakfast is served in the common lounge—seasonal fruit, homemade granola, sourdough toast with almond butter and kiwifruit compote. There’s a fireplace for winter evenings, and floor-to-ceiling windows that bring in the landscape as constant company.
Guests are just a short stroll from Honey House Café, the Stone Store Bridge, and Rainbow Falls Walk. At dusk, the light falls gold over the basin, and herons gather in the shallows. The lodge feels like a front-row seat to both history and nature.
5. Kerikeri Park Lodge – Colonial Grandeur with Practical Comfort
Location: 494B Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri 0230
Platform: Agoda and www.kerikeriparklodge.co.nz
Rate: NZD 210–240/night
Designed in the style of a colonial estate, Kerikeri Park Lodge offers old-fashioned grandeur with the amenities of a modern hotel. The lodge is set on a wide-open property that backs onto native bushland, with wraparound verandahs, weatherboard façades, and a gravel drive that crunches pleasingly underfoot.
Spacious Rooms and Friendly Service
Suites are impressively large, many with spa tubs, gas fireplaces, and kitchenettes. The furnishings strike a balance between practical comfort and timeless elegance—wingback chairs, brocade curtains, framed black-and-white photographs of early Kerikeri life. French doors lead to patios or balconies, perfect for coffee in the morning or wine at sunset.
Reception staff are warm and attentive, offering maps, dining tips, and even freshly baked muffins on certain mornings. It’s a superb option for those on extended stays or traveling with family, given the space and self-catering capabilities.
The lodge is less than 3 minutes’ drive from the airport, but you’d never guess it from the serenity that enfolds the property.
